The Kombo residential area is deliciously close to the
 ocean. Beach outings and
sunbathing are strictly Western ideas—Gambians usually confine beach
visits to exercise sessions or craft/cashew vending. Be warned that
the tides and currents along the West African coastline are surprisingly
strong, and sinkholes and sand bars are common, though the ocean
generally remains on the shallow side a good distance into the water.
There are few lifeguards, so use extreme caution
 when swimming—it’s
a bad idea to venture into the water if you’ve come to the seashore
alone. Remember that if you are caught in a rip current, the rule is
to swim parallel to the shore to escape it. The rocks can be quite
sharp, so avoid swimming or wading near visible outcroppings. The same
eroded black sandstone offers a great opportunity for tide
pooling—look, but don’t touch the many snails, crabs, rays and fish
that can only be found in Africa. Never, ever touch a jellyfish—even
if it is dead and washed up, it can still sting you badly. The sand on
the beaches has an especially interesting quicksand quality in spots
where the tide has left but water still saturates the ground. For some
curious fun, try standing in one spot and wiggling your feet until
they sink into the sand. Some recommended beaches are as followed:
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Leybato (Fajara) a quiet beach whose name
 means
"by the seashore" in Mandinka, this is a hangout for many
ex-pats and Peace Corps/VSO volunteers, as it attracts far less
bumsters than the more touristy beaches north at Cape Point and
south at Kololi (Senegambia). Leybato offers comfortable hammocks in
the shade for naps and reading/schoolwork sessions as well as a
restaurant serving food and drinks. A sandy path affording
beautiful views from a cliff can be accessed from the beach—take
a right when you emerge from the shady restaurant area and look
for any of the several “paths” to get to the top of the cliff
where you will see a better defined trail. (The path ends on
Atlantic Avenue, by the huge water tower.)
To get to Leybato, follow the steep dirt path
 marked
by a sign at the end of Kairaba Avenue where it intersects with
Atlantic Avenue. To get a taxi to Leybato from the compound,
it’s most cheap and convenient to take a ride for about $0.15
towards Bakau, get off at Sabina, and walk from there, though a
town trip may be more economical with a carload of people. The
sand path goes up a hill and down the other side—when you see
the fancy Fajara Village apartments, keep going to the left
through the gate, where you will see the cabins on the left and
a restaurant area on the right, which you should enter to access
the beach.
Cape Point: If you keep walking away from
 the tourist district,
you can find some fairly secluded, peaceful areas, though
bumsters are still more plentiful than at Leybato.
Sanyang beach is about 30 km down the coast, making a very nice
retreat for a day trip. Take a taxi from Serekunda garage, look
(ask) around for a car to Sanyang.
Ask to be let off at the junction in Sanyang; the car will turn
left off the main road into the market at precisely this
junction, but you should turn right on foot and walk down to the
beach. The mile-long walk through outskirts of the village offers some gorgeous
countryside. If it’s too hot or long to walk, you could snatch a
town trip from one of the numerous yellow taxis that ply the
way, but expect to bargain hard.
Tanji
The
Tanji beach area is not suitable for sunbathing
as it is a fishing village and the water tends to be full of
flotsam and jetsam of decaying fish, plastic bags, old fishing
nets and general rubbish. You need to move away about 1/4
of a kilometre from the smoking houses to find a decent place to
relax and soak in the sun.
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